by Is there any place more Christmassy than Munich? Not on my visit. A heavy snowfall lasted for two to five days, with the city shining in the sun under its white blanket.
Christmas markets were held in most of Munich’s squares, scenting the air with Glühwein, and on the streets the shop windows were alluring: from Dallmayr’s seashell Christmas tree to the corner bakeries with their little houses. ginger. Even the many art museums seem to prioritize Christmas. At the Alte Pinakothek art museum, Gauguin’s Tahitian interpretation of the Nativity is on display alongside more traditional versions by Renaissance masters. An echo of this can be found in the wood of Munich’s old traditional nativity scenes, which adorn the city from now until Three Kings Day.
Do
Munich has something for everyone, including a surf spot that has been attracting fans of the sport for more than forty years. The Eisbach River is located at the entrance to the large and charming Englischer Garten park and its stone step generates a standing wave about half a meter high. For those who prefer to bundle up, it’s still fun to watch surfers (including many international stars) ride the waves.
An even older attraction not to be missed is the Rathaus-Glockenspiel. This mechanical musical clock has been entertaining crowds since 1908, when it was added during the completion of the New Town Hall. The carillon takes place every day at 11:00 a.m. and 12:00 p.m. (and at 5:00 p.m. from March to October) and lasts about 15 minutes. The two halves, with their 32 life-size figures and 43 bells, recreate two historical scenes from 16th century Munich. Keep warm by sipping a Blueberry Glühwein at one of the largest Christmas markets, dating back to the 14th century, and located below on the beautiful Marienplatz, which should be your first stop when exploring Munich.
Museums
Even if it doesn’t snow, you won’t be able to visit all the museums here. Choose carefully from the impressive choice. Art lovers should head to the Alte Pinakothek, a world-class museum with one of the largest collections of European masterpieces from the 14th to 18th centuries, from Dürer to Rubens, Raphael to Rembrandt. Like its sister museum, the Neue Pinakothek is undergoing renovation until 2029, some of its major works of art from the 19th century are also on display here, particularly paintings by Van Gogh, Gaugin and Cezanne (pinakothek.de).
A later addition to the art scene is MUCA, the Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art. It currently houses a Damien Hirst exhibition that includes his famous platinum cast of a human skull with more than 8,000 diamonds (muca-eu).
Shopping
Christmas shopping is easy here. Head to Manufactum on Dienerstrasse, which has a wide range of wonderful Christmas decorations, from brightly painted wooden birds to clever star-shaped steel candle bases. With an emphasis on natural and sustainable products, they also have everything a keen cook could want for their kitchen, including a wonderfully tactile spice grinder. Right next door is Munich’s answer to Fortnum & Mason; Dallmayr has its origins in the 18th century and today it is the largest delicatessen in Europe. Famous for its coffee, it has 18 other specialist departments, from crayfish waiting to be bought at its cherub fountain to the easier-to-package caviar and, of course, the traditional Christmas stollen (dallmayr.com).
Food shopping can be continued at Viktualienmarket. A farmers’ market that has been around for centuries, specializing in Bavarian products and offering endless possibilities for lunch or a snack while shopping (viktualienmarkt-muenchen.de).
Christmas markets
But so do the Christmas Markets with their typical potato pancakes, sausages, candied fruits, pretzels and more. People come as much for the atmosphere as for the shopping. Here you can find Christmas tree decorations, knitted socks, wooden toys, jewelry, candlesticks and more, but primarily they are places to gather and share some holiday cheer. The best? Taking place in the largest courtyard of Munich’s city palace, La Residenz, its stalls include puppet shows and craft workshops.
Eat Drink
The vision of “when in Rome” means having breakfast with Munich Weisswurst: white sausages with sweet mustard, parsley and pretzel. And nothing better to do it than the new Rosewood Munich, whose pretzels alone are worth the visit. But also stay for lunch and try their traditional Alpine spinach meatballs or their beef tartare.
Much talked about is the famous Hofbräuhaus, a typical brewery that has been thriving since the 16th century, but if you want something more authentic, try the Spatenhaus an der Opera, just opposite the State Opera. Under delicately painted ceilings, dine on a perfectly crispy Wiener Schnitzel with a side of delicious hot potatoes (kuffler.de).
For a fun night out with good food, try to get a table at Schumann’s, the most popular restaurant in town. Start with a cocktail (her mezcal margarita is sensational) and continue by trying her beef tartare with a local wine. Maybe you’ll even be attended to by the great Charles Schumann himself (schumanns.de).
Stay
….And I did, due to what was supposedly the heaviest snowfall since 1938. My two nights turned into four and then five. But the more I stayed at the new Rosewood that opened last month, the more I loved it. Housed in two iconic buildings, one of which was the former Bavarian State Bank and the other the Neuhaus-Preysing Palace, the rooms and suites are designed by Tara Bernerd, whose characteristic elegant warmth is evident. They’re uncluttered yet luxurious, with colorful, locally inspired artwork woven in and books lining the shelves. Bathrooms have deep soaking tubs and generous showers. The floors are heated and the towels are the thickest I have ever used.
The food at their Alpine-inspired brasserie, Cuvilliés, hits the spot. Try spinach meatballs with pecorino cheese and brown butter to see what I mean. And when you return from the cold outside, head to the spa for a dip in the beautiful heated pool. It is surrounded by oversized sofas in alcoves and books and has an immersive atmosphere that permeates the entire hotel.
Double rooms start at €800 with breakfast included at the Rosewood Munich (hotelsrosewood.com).
