by Say what you want about Farage’s politics, but the man knows how to dress. Tweed and waxed jackets are the norm. But this week at Heathrow, when he returned from his time at I’m a celebrity, cut a kind of elegant touch with a strawberry sorbet jacket and a linen shirt. Okay, so style is subjective, but for a man his age, the options are limited. I thought he looked good (despite the boat shoes).
However, the most notable thing about its sprezzatura was that it was used for a long-distance flight. It reminded me that many of us now fly in outfits ranging from diaper onesies to inexpensive sportswear. In a word, one is “comfortable.” In fact, 6am (or pm) at Gatwick feels like a teenage sleepover sponsored by Sports Direct.
I find it a little sad. You’re excited to escape on vacation to some historic or exotic location, and any romantic notions of travel are thwarted by hordes of zombies wearing faux fleece hoodies covered in writing and logos. As a geriatric millennial whose style options are rapidly narrowing, I’ve channeled my inner Farage, favoring sleek suits and hats and cute, petite accessories. A blow that improves my behavior and helps me immerse myself in the theater of traveling to a distant land. Or France.
The golden age of fashion at 35,000 feet
As your (grand)parents will tell you, there was a time when Nige and I wouldn’t have been out of place at all. The “golden age of travel,” from the 1950s to the 1970s, is fondly remembered (by those who could afford it) as a time of glamour: Krug and caviar, tobacco and legroom.
It coincided with the start of the jet age, ushered in by planes like the De Havilland Comet, which carried the great and good over the Atlantic for the first time. Airlines were competing with cruise ships and therefore focused more on amenities than extra seats. At one point, Air France flight attendants wore Chanel and Dior. Showing up in long johns or flesh-colored spandex might have been a little clumsy.
So when did dressing for a flight take a nosedive? My uncle, a long-time British Airways captain, tells me there was no defining moment. Although he can identify the omen: “When Boeing’s 747 Jumbo Jet arrived in 1970, it tripled the number of people you could carry on a plane,” he says. So, while there were still frozen swans and foie gras in first class, hundreds of seats were now reserved for economy class travelers.
“Flight prices plummeted and everyone started traveling abroad on vacation. In some ways that was great, but not so good for fashion,” she says. Plurality and glamour, as always, were inversely proportional and the extra seats crammed onto these bulbous air ferries were smaller and less comfortable. A new utilitarian tone was set and the price of tickets (along with lower levels of comfort) simply did not justify the hassle of wearing the gay rags. “It would be like dressing up to take a bus.”
But we still hadn’t gone from ballgowns to Birkenstocks. The death knell for mile-high glitz would come with the advent of low-cost air travel. But long before Easyjet and Ryanair sent us to Crete for a tenner, a British businessman called Freddie Laker set the tone. His Skytrain, which first crossed the Atlantic in 1977, offered no free meals, drinks or luxuries. Laker Airways’ fares (from Gatwick to Miami for £99 return) were a fraction of those charged by the big US airlines.
“For the first time, people came to fly in swimsuits and hats,” my uncle remembers.
The latest top fashionistas
Bucking the trend until the early 2000s was the Concorde, a supersonic airliner that only operated in first class. The High Countess of Glamor herself, Joan Collins, was a regular of hers, and photos abound of her sitting across from her with a glass of champagne grafted onto her hand. When Concorde had its wings clipped in 2003, she said it was a “parody of civilization.” Fast forward 20 years and you realize that maybe she was right.
Of course, you know what low-cost flights look and feel like. Perversely early beginnings, ends of purgatory, seats that support osteopathy. It makes sense that one would want to wear comfortable clothes that wrap themselves around them.
But what about those who avoid the hassle by flying first class? The fact that so many high fashion brands are now collaborating with sportswear brands (à la Gucci x Northface) offers insight into trends in general. But one theory that resonates (postulated by my other uncle, also a British Airways captain) relates to the explosion of celebrity culture in the early 1990s.
“Smartphones and selfies increased the need to go incognito, so stars wore the simplest clothing possible, along with the obligatory cap,” he says. “His acolytes copied them and thus a new type of functional fly clothing emerged, even in the front of the plane.” Kanye West’s ‘airport sweater’ is a case in point.
In the case of some airlines, any form of formality has been actively renounced: Virgin Atlantic’s latest advertising campaign promotes the pierced and tattooed individuality of its staff. Of course, it is also evident that our choice of clothing is related to the new reasons why we now travel. As uncle number two says: “You won’t be wearing your Sunday best if you’re hiking in the Alps, especially with the current luggage restrictions.”
“It is not like this?” I replied. While the trend of flying in your Jim Jams shows no signs of abating, I remain on Nige’s side: she ditches the pants and flies in something a little dressier. Mainly because she adds polish to the proceedings. And, well, as Victoria Beckham once said: “The airport is your runway.”
Chic travel companions: for her
smart floors
In the past it was customary to wear high heels on a flight. These days there are more safety regulations: we’ve all seen the sign warning that your shoes could go down the emergency slide. Instead, opt for supple leather pumps, which are still stylish, but totally comfortable.
Bombs, £350, dearfrances.com
The wrinkle-free dress
Certain traditionally elegant fabrics, such as linen, will wrinkle when taking a long trip. Brands like Cefinn specialize in fabrics that are equally refreshing to wear and give the same look, wrinkle-free. Bundle up with jackets and cardigans.
Dress, £216, Cefinn at net-a-porter.com
The structured bag
Don’t be the person with a full, spilled duffel bag. Keep your carry-on luggage well-structured and zippered; but don’t forget to compare the size with the requirements of your chosen airline, as a solid bag cannot be crushed as easily in EasyJet’s size box.
Midori bag, £105, charlesandkeith.com
Chic travel companions: for him
A soft structured blazer
The traveling gentleman’s best friend, a blazer with a more fluid fit and fabric combines comfort with a straight feel. He forget about the vertical varieties of suits and opt for a knit or jersey version; The shape looks elegant but the fabric is easy for long trips.
Harris Wharf cardigan, £171, yoox.com
driving shoes
If you’re the type of person for whom sneakers are gym clothes, the driving shoe is a sweet spot, especially when flying. They exude a certain Italian sprezzatura style, but can be taken on and off with ease.
Pierson suede loafers, £49, jonesbootmaker.com
A foldable hat
If you’re more Savile Row than Stansted Express, a crisp hat reminds you of the golden age of travel. Evoke a first-class stance, even on Ryanair, with a stylish Panama, but it’s crucial to opt for one that’s designed to fold and crease when things overhead get a little tricky.
The Folder hat, £84.95, borgesandscott.com
By Carolina Leaper
