by From the terrace of my room, the sky looks the same shade of blue as the waters of the Adriatic Sea. My sapphire canvas is interrupted by a lush green mountain with terracotta roofs looming. From time to time, the tranquility of this quiet corner of Montenegro is disturbed by a small boat or a large cruise ship, but never for long.
In the distance, the enduring series of mountain ranges and valleys between which the sun finally sets is a spectacle of eternal beauty, which captivated author George Bernard Shaw and actress Sophia Loren, and caused One&Only to choose this exclusive location for its first European property.
Where?
Immersed in the Portonovi development, in the coastal town of Hercog Novi, the hotel is located on a former military base next to a French Riviera-style marina packed with superyachts, high-end villas for private purchase, apartments, art galleries and awards. -Winning haute cuisine restaurants.
With access by road, sea and air, getting here couldn’t be easier. We drove on a beautifully scenic road from Dubrovnik, which took us an hour. Alternatively, you can get off in Tivat (50 minutes) or at Podgorica airport (two and a half hours).
The historic city center, just 10 minutes away, features the remains of a fortress built by Bosnian King Tvrtko I in 1382. Relics of its turbulent past under the Turks, Austrians, Venetians and Spanish are on display as walk through its cobblestone streets. streets. Kanli Kula, meaning bloody tower, was built under Ottoman rule, and the Church of St. Archangel (Michael Crkva Sveti Arhangel Mihajlo) on Belavista Square is from the Austro-Hungarian era.
Style
One&Only Portonovi’s design and architectural influence comes from Montenegro’s Venetian and Byzantine roots. The palatial reception area, where white embroidered curtains dance in the softest breeze and Murano glass sparkles, is a haven of arts and crafts, with unusual hanging lamps wrapped around twisted branches, opulent marble fireplaces and elegant chandeliers.
A similar style influences the rest of the hotel, where high ceilings, arches and earthy colors bring to life the greens of the mountains and the blues of the sea.
“We researched the historical and cultural characteristics of the destination,” says Jean-Michel Gathy, the legendary lead designer at award-winning hospitality and design consultancy Denniston.
“Montenegro, which was located on the Silk Road, was greatly influenced by the Ottoman presence. The different buildings are articulated with each other, forming a lively ensemble with columns, galleries and cornices crowned by corbels. The garden is reminiscent of classicism from afar. Venetian, but it’s much more fanciful than it seems,” says Gathy. And they do it. Perfectly manicured green spaces, planted with fragrant flowers and palm trees, line all paths, hiding some structures from view and bringing others to the foreground.
What room?
The resort, open all year round, has 113 luxury rooms, suites and villas, and 10 private houses, with stunning views of the Bay of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Each room has a balcony with views of the gardens or the aquamarine sea, or both. Aside from the main structure, there are several more intimate villas with between six and eight bedrooms, each with its own private pool, accessible only to the building’s guests.
The rooms have a modern design with three key tones: grey, brown and beige. A custom wall unit accommodates a mini bar with a selection of premium drinks, a study and a stack of carefully curated coffee table books on cocktails and art.
While the living space may be sober and masculine in taste, the bathroom is everything one could wish for. The spacious room is bright from the glass bay window and comes complete with a daybed, a bathroom that converts to another daybed, a shower, closets, a dressing table and two vanities.
Food and drink
One&Only Portonovi has three restaurants, each specializing in different cuisines with matching décor. Tapasake, the Japanese beach club, combines small plates with refined Asian fusion flavors. From sashimi to poke bowls, there’s plenty of seafood delights fresh from the waters of Montenegro and, where possible, other ingredients are sourced from local farms. The interior design is sophisticated and uses reclaimed wood, dark wood and stone with oriental touches. In keeping with the rest of the theme, the furniture is all gray with a hint of orange on the soft furnishings. Tapasake is all about a relaxed Ibizan-style atmosphere, day and night.
In the center of the property, La Veranda is an all-day restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu is inspired by traditional and European cuisine and serves everything from beef and lamb to buzara, a local mixed seafood dish with garlic cooked in red sauce. Ask the sommelier for a perfect wine pairing.
Right on the sand is Sabia, a beachfront and poolside Italian restaurant with panoramic views of the Bay of Kotor. At the entrance is a welcoming display of freshly prepared penne, spaghetti and tagliatelle, waiting to be topped with a tasty sauce. A steaming plate of carbs is what you need on a nice evening by the sea. Once this is done, retire to the cozy Caminetti bar for a leisurely drink and a smoke by the fireplace.
Facilities
Are there too many swimming pools? With five outdoor pools and one heated indoor pool, there’s plenty of room to swim. Couples can sit by the adults-only Tapasake pool, while families can build sandcastles along the stretch of private beach next to three kid-friendly beaches.
If you’re working out on holiday, you’re in luck as there’s rarely a gym with such magnificent views of the hills and an infinity pool. If you’re more into a spa, Swiss brand Chenot Espace has a selection of treatments, from manicures to massages, plus hydrotherapy, sauna and hammam. There is also a four to seven day detox program curated and supervised by expert doctors and nutritionists.
Extra curricular
You can’t leave Portonovi without a visit to the medieval towns of Kotor and Perast, where winding streets lead to unexpected historic squares housing Romanesque churches. Kotor is one of the oldest fortified cities in Europe and still exudes that charm. Wander its narrow, cat-filled streets in search of a hole-in-the-wall cafe or local bakery.
There are several ways to get there from Portonovi: take a scenic drive along the coast or take a 45-minute boat that departs from the hotel and stops at Our Lady of the Rocks along the way. Either way, you’re guaranteed stunning views of the mountains and coastal towns.
Neighboring Serbia may have earned a reputation for producing fine wines, but Montenegro is no slouch. Ten minutes from One&One Portonovi, Bodega Savina has revived an 18th century vineyard to produce award-winning wines. The family-owned business sits high on a hill on the site of a working monastery of the same name. Surrounded by forests and panoramic views of the bay, guests can sample white, red, chardonnay and rosé wines from vines growing just steps away.
Details
One&Only Portonovi rates start from £710 per room per night, including daily breakfast and VAT. For more information or to make a reservation, visit oneandonlyportonovi.com
