by The return of dresses over pants. Who would have thought. The first time I caught a glimpse of my favorite ’90s trend was in some street style photos from Copenhagen Fashion Week earlier in the year. I let out a sigh of nostalgia, but didn’t think much more.
Then, a few weeks later, on the Gucci runway, in new designer Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection: a crystal-encrusted lime green shift dress, worn over jeans., with heels and a green snakeskin shoulder bag. Pure déjà vu from me Sex and the city wardrobe of the time.
As if she needed any more proof of the phenomenon, Alexa Chung has also been repeating the look, posting a photo of herself on Instagram wearing a sheer black tulle puffy dress over jeans, along with the defiant caption: “I missed dresses over jeans, “I’m sorry if you didn’t.”
It’s official, the “skouser” trend (not the most elegant neologism, I admit) is back, if you want to give it another try… Or even try it for the first time.
To be clear, it’s not just about wearing dresses or skirts Cowboys …It never was. In the ’90s, wearing tight evening pants with a slip dress and a sheer blouse was the basis for some of my dressier going-out looks. By the way, this turned out to be a blessing on one occasion when I went to the American Bar at The Savoy with my boyfriend (now husband) for Christmas cocktails. He wore a stylish pair of boot-cut pants with a jacquard shift dress and heels according to; but when his “indie boy” outfit didn’t meet the no-jeans dress code, I was able to lend him my pants and still be perfectly decent (women’s pants night has passed into family history, of course, so what a carer!).
Fast forward to winter 2023, model Mouchette Bell, who transitioned to the other side of the lens after many years as a stylist and fashion director, tells me: “The first time, in the ’90s, I really liked the pants with dresses and I’m I’m going to do it again. I’ll wear really tight pants or something that looks more like pajamas, it really depends on what makes you feel good, but I think it’s a great look.”
I must say that Bell is a walking masterclass on how to style a vintage jacquard dress or a sequined mermaid skirt over jeans (with a thermal T-shirt and a parka) so you can get a sense of her eclectic and feminine style even in winter . months in which covering up is key.
It’s always fascinating when a particular trend takes center stage again; and why it resonates again. In its 1990s iteration, the irreverent gender-blending inherent in wearing a skirt over pants had its roots in the tarnished glamor and androgyny of “grunge.” Who can forget the iconic image of Kurt Cobain, with a beard and bleached hair, on the cover of Face With a flower dress?
Of course, the rage and rebellion of that provocative stance has a new relevance in 2023-style gender fluid dressing. There was also a strong influence of traditional Indian clothing in Western wardrobes of the ’90s. Think: embroidered tunics on flowing trousers, whether in the elevated designs of Dries Van Noten, or on the high street rails at Monsoon or Whistles; and not forgetting the sequined DIY “Bhangra Disco” outfits for East-meets-West clubbing nights. As the fashion conversation becomes more diverse and global, it makes sense that this approach to dressing is now fully present.
Steph Stevens, the stylist and consultant who has worked closely with Alexa Chung over the years, was synonymous with the irreverent and unexpected layered look of dresses/skirts over pants in her definitive ’90s fashion editorials for titles like J17and Martha (RIP). Why did this style speak to you? “It was fun!” she says simply. “The way I styled the look was quite scruffy and uneven. It was also a great way to wear vintage clothes from different eras that somehow worked together, which resulted in an ‘I don’t care’ vibe that I loved.”
While Steven’s signature style in the ’90s was tomboyish and never afraid to push boundaries, she believes the dresses-over-pants phenomenon appealed to a large number of women at the time, because it allowed them to experiment with clothes they already had in their wardrobe to find a silhouette that works for them. “It can look very stylish and fun, which I’m sure we all accept,” she says, describing one COS shirt in particular as her ideal look.
I have a feeling that the pants plus dress equation is a very promising solution for the holiday season. As much as I always want to look good for the holidays, feel comfortable and not also Dressing well for the subway is also high on my list of priorities.
With this assignment in mind, I entered the fashion closet with the Telegraph styling team. The mission? To put together uplifting, flattering dress-over-pants combinations that look put together and ready for a soirée (without inadvertently making me look like I’m pretending to be a member of All Saints in a throwback greatest hits photonovel).
First, we tried a printed midi. I’m a little reluctant because I’ve abandoned my (embarrassingly extensive) collection of mid-length dresses. They feel too safe and polite; Not exciting enough for a night on the town. Interestingly, layering one over a pair of jeans (as I’ve done here) makes everything feel fresher and younger.
Crepe de Chine dress, £475, really wild; Skinny Jeans, £109, Le Jean; Velvet shoes, £160, Esska; Gold plated earrings, £195, Deborah Blyth
In fact, it puts me in a good mood to go out in a pair of velvet platforms. As style director Tona Stell points out, a button-down dress works particularly well, since you can see a bit of leg (albeit in this case dressed in denim); Plus, it’s easier to walk around without feeling too wrapped up.
Next: A slip dress over a polo neck or t-shirt is a timeless look that I love. In this case I’m wearing my own Simone Rocha combination from a couple of seasons ago (who isn’t in love with “a touch of red” this winter?). The flimsy silk fabric of this particular combination meant that layering over jeans seemed a bit “clumpy and bumpy”, instead we tried these flowy Samsoe Samsoe pajama pants which worked perfectly and were incredibly comfortable.
The dress is Sarah’s; Wool jumper, £39.95, Muji; Viscose blend trousers, £150, Samsoe Samsoe; Patent leather shoes, £69, Charles and Keith; Pearl earrings, £165, Deborah Blyth
There are some beautiful velvet slip dresses in stores if you are looking for a thicker fabric. I liked the comfort of the roll neck underneath the slip, but if I were to try this look again for a night out, I’d choose a white linen t-shirt underneath, to make it feel a little less “enclosed.”
The third look was a revelation, a real game changer for me this holiday season. Let’s say there’s a reason Ghost dresses have been loved by women for almost 40 years. The winter white number the team chose is a beauty. The signature viscose satin is incredibly flattering and skims the body rather than hugs it (this also makes it good for layering, not too clingy over belt loops and buttons).
Satin dress, £64.50, Ghost; Citizens of Humanity Straight Leg Jeans, £210, Harrods harrods.com; Platform shoes, £165, Esska; Pearl earrings, £165, Deborah Blyth
As counterintuitive as it may seem, putting this beautiful dress on over jeans made it feel super wearable; less “bridesmaid”, less “save the best” than he would if he had worn it with bare legs or stockings. He has a bit of that ’90s Kurt and Courtney “Hollywood nightgown and ratty Levis” charm. To quote Mr. Cobain himself, it’s a suit that says, “Come as you are.” It’s not over done, it feels relaxed and ready to party.
Oh, that’s another thing I love about the return of the dresses over pants trend, you probably already have all the components you need in your wardrobe. I think we can all toast to that.
