by It’s time to heat up the glühwein and enjoy the gingerbread cookies: the Christmas market season is here.
However, between the relentless crowds and stalls filled with cheap goods, the romantic image of holiday fairs rarely matches reality. Therefore, it’s best to look beyond the oversubscribed classics and look for a lesser-known option worth basing a winter vacation on.
These spots champion local artisans and sell attractive stocking stuffers like small-batch spirits, handmade wool hats, and delicate glass ornaments. Instead of stale, cloying sweets, you’ll find hot dishes cooked by Michelin-starred chefs, hearty local specialties, and plenty of preserves and authentic panettone to pack in your suitcase.
From Padstow to Poland, here are eight Christmas markets worth your time (and money) this winter.
Padstow, Cornwall, England
Cornwall and Christmas aren’t the most obvious companions, but Padstow certainly gets into the Christmas spirit with a full festival. Short but sweet, the city’s event takes place over four days in early December and, as expected from a place ruled by Rick Stein, has a gastronomic focus. This year we will see demonstrations from chefs such as José Pizarro and Nigel Haworth, who will share festive cooking tips and tricks.
From the stalls you can expect local blue cheese and smoked fish, plus stocking fillers such as mulled wine jam and gin flavored with foraged coastal botanicals. Try a tartiflette topped with Cornish brie or seafood chowder before stocking up on handmade wool blankets, tableware made from local slate and seashell jewellery.
Details: December 7 to 10; padstowchristmasfestival.co.uk.
Where to stay: The Padstow Harbor Hotel is a bright, bright and bold Victorian boutique hotel that fuses a bit of luxury with a touch of coastal charm and overlooks the Camel Estuary. Rooms from £170.
Helsinki, Finland
For a touch of Nordic style, head to Helsinki’s Tuomaan Markkinat, which closely vets its merchants to ensure high-quality handmade products rather than mass-market junk. There is a particular focus on vintage and recycled goods at the Finnish capital’s oldest Christmas market and the green effort extends to the central carousel, which rotates on renewable energy; Even the mulled wine served is flavored with leftover apples from local orchards.
Top buys from 90 Artisans include traditional wooden gnome table decorations, delicate glass tree ornaments (remember to bring bubble wrap), and merino wool socks.
Details: December 1 to 22; tuomaanmarkkinat.fi.
Where to stay: The Kämp offers classic luxury from the late 19th century in a historic and central setting. Known for hosting visiting celebrities such as the Stones and Springsteen, this is Finland’s best five-star hotel. Rooms from £237.
Gdansk, Poland
Krakow’s mega Christmas market may grab all the attention, but opt for the port city of Gdansk in northern Poland for a new spin on a classic festive getaway – not to mention there are far fewer tourists. In the young city, which attracts emerging artists and designers seeking coastal breezes and cheap rents, you’ll find chalet stalls selling modern ceramics and recycled clothing alongside traditional wooden trinkets.
Enjoy mulled wine with plenty of pierogis (Polish dumplings) before taking a stroll along the river, flanked by buildings adorned with twinkling lights. Gdansk also gets bonus points for being one of the most affordable cities in Europe, perfect for holiday shopping at discounted prices.
Details: November 24 to December 23.
Where to stay: The millennial-focused PURO Hotel Gdańsk Stare Miasto is a winner for all ages, with its sleek design (think bold local art on the walls and subway-tiled bathrooms) and chic rooftop bar overlooking the marina. Rooms from £78.
Sevilla Spain
Spain may not be the first destination that comes to mind when it comes to Christmas markets, but from Barcelona to Bilbao, sprawling festive fairs take over their cities at the end of November. Opt for an excursion to Seville and you’ll be rewarded with relatively warm temperatures (a light sweater is usually sufficient) and the Creative Crafts Fair, where around 30 traders sell wooden nativity figures.
The markets in the Andalusian city of Granada are a good option for foodies with freshly fried churros and traditional almond cakes to snack on along with candles and locally made leather goods.
Details: November 25 to December 23.
Where to stay: Casa Poeta is a 17th-century mansion tucked away down a small alley, offering nightly live guitar performances and a large rooftop terrace with views of the cathedral. Rooms from £161.
Trento, Italy
Nowhere in Italy is Christmas celebrated like in the northern city of Trento, where the entire medieval center becomes a scene of snowballs at the end of November. Surrounded by the white-topped Dolomites, the market’s Alpine-style stalls certainly look more appropriate than, say, Hyde Park and more than earns its nickname of Città del Natale (Christmas City).
Head to Via Garibaldi (behind the Duomo) to shop for handmade gifts, with proceeds going to charity, or to Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, designed for children, with workshops and a Santa’s grotto. As for food, try tortel di patate (a fried potato pancake topped with cheese or meat) or a thick slice of apple strudel, a reminder of the region’s Austrian heritage. This year there is a particular ecological focus: renewable energy lights up the stalls and food vendors even use plates made from bread.
Dates: November 18 to January 7; mercatinodinatale.tn.it.
Where to stay: A 15-minute walk from the city center, NH Trento offers guests a peaceful setting next to the Adige River and alpine views. Rooms from £97.
Zagreb, Croatia
Croatia’s capital comes to life in the run-up to Christmas with a huge Advent festival spread across 20 locations in the city centre. Top picks include Zrinjevac Park, where you’ll find local delicacies like krpice sa zeljem (cabbage pasta) and paprenjaci (gingerbread cookies with pepper), and the Oktogan passage for its unusual lighting installations.
Families should head straight to Ilica 49, where children can make rag dolls and small wooden toys in a special workshop, or simply enjoy the huge toy displays. There has been a push to showcase ‘Made in Zagreb’ products, so it is easy to find quality handmade decorations. Other attractions include the musical concerts that take place during the festive period, plus a host of theater productions and exhibitions.
Dates: From December 2 to January 7.
Where to stay: Book a room at the art-deco Esplanade Hotel, which was originally built in 1925 as a glamorous stop for passengers on the Orient Express and remains the best place to stay in the city. Rooms from £131.
Montreux, Switzerland
On the shores of Lake Geneva and at the foot of the snow-capped Alps, the resort town of Montreux provides a fairytale setting for one of the largest Christmas markets in Switzerland. Their stalls focus on homemade products and quality items, while the gastronomic offering includes filled crepes and, of course, mulled wine. There are also a number of magical experiences for children in the covered section of the market, where they can bake cookies and color candles.
Alternatively, take the cog railway up Rochers-de-Naye Mountain to meet Santa Claus in his snowy grotto. Every night he can also be seen riding his sleigh to the lake and shouting Merry Christmas or Joyeux Noël.
Dates: November 23 to December 24; montreuxnoel.com.
Where to stay: Push the boat out with a stay at Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, a Belle Époque hotel with a prime location overlooking Lake Geneva. Rooms from £350.
Tallinn, Estonia
The star of the Tallinn Christmas market is a twinkling tree, which has been erected in the medieval Town Hall Square every year since 1441; Locals proudly claim it was the first exhibition in Europe. With only about 30 stalls, the surrounding market is quite compact but more interesting than most: feast on Estonian specialties such as black pudding and sour cabbage, while perusing the selection of hand-knitted socks.
Elsewhere in the Baltic capital you’ll find an enticing mix of fairytale towers, mighty walls and grand ancient palaces, although the modern Kalamaja district, with its art galleries and street food spots, keeps things fresh. The high chance of snow and affordable prices make Tallinn an even more tempting proposition.
dates: from December 1 to January 7; mercadodenavidad.ee
Where to stay: The Schlössle offers five-star luxury in a beautifully restored 13th-century merchant’s house in one of the quietest neighborhoods of Tallinn’s Old Town. Rooms from £147.
