by From the drizzle-soaked tarmac on an Essex afternoon, we had a few free moments before take-off. Idly flipping through the inflight magazine, a dreamscape of mountain hotels and snow slopes filled the air. So, there it was, in black and white, on high-quality recycled paper, exclamation point included.
“The flight itself is a vacation!”
Fighting words from three-year-old Bolzano-based SkyAlps president Josef Gostner. The Italian businessman, renewable energy magnate and licensed pilot is behind the initiative to offer British skiers a faster way to the glistening Crayola box-coloured Dolomites, along with a world-class flying experience .
SkyAlps’ first winter service departed London Stansted for Bolzano on December 13 and promises to transform ski holidays in this underrated region. More personalized service, better refreshments, fewer passengers and a destination airport that puts you just 40 minutes from the slopes and passenger.
When it comes to creating that private jet feeling, little luxuries count. We were off to a good start with a queue-free check-in counter. Here I also faced another obstacle of the ski traveler: bulky luggage. Although it was a three-day trip, my suitcase weighed 16.5kg, more than the 15kg allowance that comes with a standard fare. Nobody flinched. “We’re not a budget airline, so we try to be helpful,” SkyAlps representative Daniela Lintner said as she handed me my boarding pass with a smile.
Getting settled was painless. The seats are configured two by two, solving the dreaded middle seat scenario. Less than two dozen passengers meant about 60 empty seats and plenty of overhead space. Among us were some Italians returning home and a young London-based professional joining her family for a skiing holiday. In the absence of any entertainment system or Wi-Fi, my port seat 16A had a pretty exciting view of the underside of the wing and one of the plane’s two six-blade propellers.
A convincing hum filled the cabin as the two engines started up for a punctual departure at 16:05. The Dash DHC-8 Q400, manufactured in Canada, is destined to be one of the quietest turboprop aircraft to take to the skies. The Q may stand for “quiet,” but the power-packed takeoff has a decidedly higher chill factor than that of a run-of-the-mill airplane. As we leveled off at 25,000 feet, it was approaching five o’clock and, during our flying vacation, all thoughts turned to après ski in the sky.
Instead of asking me to pay for the usual warm snack, the friendly waiter handed me a printed wine list. It was a forbidden area: very nice wines from South Tyrol were gladly served: two whites, one red and one sparkling. The snacks were also local: from a region famous for its high-quality cuisine born of the Italian style, we had Loacker cookies, full-fat yogurt and Schüttelbrot (a crusty regional bread) flavored with fennel. Drinks and snacks are free and came more than once.
Let us now consider the value. This isn’t a low-cost airline (a one-way fare starts at €184 (£159)), but it’s not Gulfstream either. Even though there’s only one bathroom and seats that don’t recline, when it came to offering a big splash luxury, the moment of arrival alone could be worth the investment.
Enter the virtually private terminal. After two hours and 30 minutes in the air, landing at the vine-surrounded Aeroporto di Bolzano felt elegant and comfortable, unlike the human processing plant environment at some “world-class” airports. Apart from a small number of SkyAlps flights, the only flights operating here are those of the so-called “general aviation”, better known as the occasional banker from Zurich flying his private plane. After a quick passport check, I headed out the door, completely missing the luggage carousel already spinning with our stuff. A good man delivered them moments later.
All this premium living prepares you perfectly for the main event. Landing, plus 40 minutes of travel, you will be in the town of Val Gardena, and then you will have a large number of options. First is Selva, then a little further on Alpe di Siusi, Kronplatz and Corvara, where I was enjoying appetizer at the traditional Sassongher Hotel 90 minutes after landing.
Each of these pretty villages is part of the 1,200km of connected Dolomiti Superski skiing: a tangle of smooth white runs that, if stretched, could run across the entire country. But that’s only half the story. These crowd-free havens (which also include La Villa, San Cassiano and Colfosco to collectively form the Alta Badia region) are home to a gastro-ski getaway of Romanesque proportions.
As part of Alta Badia’s A Taste for Skiing gastronomic initiative, eight mountain establishments offer a gourmet dish created by a different Michelin-starred Italian chef, using excellent products from South Tyrol and accompanied by local wines. Dishes start at €21 (£18), such as the cappuccino soup with mushrooms and sausages that I enjoyed at Ütia Bioch. There is nothing better for a good mountain lunch. Or not?
Blink and you’ll miss Col Alto, hidden beneath the upper cable car station of the same name and overlooking a medley of Dolomite peaks. Order a deluxe sampler of starters with trout tartare, speck and foie gras, served with hearty baskets of bread. A delicious last lunch crowned by one last journey home, flying and floating under the rosy glow of the setting sun of the Dolomites. After all, the vacation is in the flight.
Essentials
SkyAlps operates flights twice a week (Wednesday and Sunday) between London and Bolzano from €184 (£159) each way. Fifty percent discount for children from 2 to 11 years old, children under two years old are free. Hotel Sassongher offers rooms from €300 (£259) per night, half board, based on two people. For more information about Corvara and Alta Badia.
Find more of Italy’s best ski resorts in our guide.
