by Instead of celebrating its 10th anniversary with a big party, the St. Louis Fashion Fund is staying true to its purpose and supporting the area’s economy with a year of special events.
While relocation and domestic manufacturing have been gaining some traction in certain cities, such initiatives fit into St. Louis’ heritage. Since the end of 19th century until the end of World War II, the city’s textile district ranked second only to that of New York City. In the 1950s, the number of clothing manufacturers in the city tripled, due in large part to young dressmakers. Washington Avenue once housed some of those businesses and so many shoe manufacturers that it was nicknamed “Shoe Street, USA.”
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Over the past decade, the St. Louis Fashion Fund has championed 800 local fashion-related businesses, established brands, key players, students and designers, including many of whom are members of the area’s refugee community. Together, this fashion community contributes $3.3 billion in revenue to the area.
Founded to help take local brands to the next level, SLFF began by raising $2.1 million to fund an incubator for a two-year program that attracted national talent and led to the hiring of a CEO. In the following years, the group expanded its reach to also support photographers, jewelry designers, makeup artists and other fashion-related creatives. There is also a renewed commitment to strengthen manufacturing and create jobs, sustain employment and strengthen industry-related businesses, no matter how small or large.
The main event will feature Michael Kors in conversation with Derek Blasberg on April 1, as part of SLFF’s “Speaking of Fashion” series organized with Washington University in St. Louis and footwear group Caleres, based there. . A crowd of 800 is expected at the Graham Memorial Chapel on campus and the event will be livestreamed. A trunk show will also be held in the area.
For Kors, the honor is professional and personal. The designer said: “I am honored to participate in this extraordinary program that, for a decade, has been a leading voice for local designers, students and fashion fans. my husband, spear [LaPere] “It comes from the St. Louis region, so it’s a good opportunity to pay tribute to this community.”
Kors’ participation is in line with other notable names who have been saluted by the organization, including Diane von Furstenberg, Iris Apfel and Andre Leon Talley. St. Louis natives include Blasberg and model Karlie Kloss. Fashion followers focused on the major catwalks of New York, Milan, Paris and London might shrug their shoulders at St. Louis and, perhaps anticipating the skeptics, the SLFF has launched a “Why St. Louis?” Media campaign. To try to pave the way for generations of new designers, the campaign addresses diversity, equity and inclusion; workforce development; job creation and retention.
In addition to Caleres, who has supported the nonprofit since its inception, anniversary year sponsors include the University of Washington, Edward Jones, Lewis Rice DeLux, Greater St. Louis Inc., Lou Fusz, US Bank , Audacy and Fox 2/KPLR 11.
Post-pandemic shutdown, having left its incubator, the organization was ready to come out strong again to show St. Louis, the region and the U.S. that the city is “still moving and shaking,” said SLFF co-founder Susan Sherman. . The objective was to take advantage of “all the good” that the city radiates, not only in relation to the fashion fund but with all its collaborators and partners.
In honor of the 10th anniversary, 10 organizations were selected to be featured, with an emphasis on some that may not get adequate funding or publicity. They included some Black, Indigenous and People of Color designers through FwrdSociety, Mother Model Management and Gent Menswear Fashion.
Other anniversary events will include a parade on Feb. 18 featuring members of Major League Soccer’s St. Louis City SC team and aspiring soccer stars, who participate in the club’s Futures Program. Every last twist will be curated by Dwight Carter of Gent Men’s Fashion Week, a little-publicized event that has been held in the city for years.
There are also plans for the SLFF to lead Missouri’s first annual fashion lobby days in the capital of Jefferson City. Nearly 100 leaders, educators, entrepreneurs and designers from Cape Girardeau, Columbia, Kansas City, Springfield and St. Louis have committed to lobbying and informing political powers about the economic impact of the industry. “I’m not sure” political leaders “are very aware” of that, Sherman said, “you know how [some] “People don’t think of fashion as a big business.” Among those attending will be representatives of third-generation sewing machine manufacturer Tacony, a company founded 77 years ago.
She observed how some local seamstresses practiced special techniques in the countries where they came from, such as Afghanistan or El Salvador. Honing those skills would ultimately require funding and grants, which is why SLFF supporters will make their case as an introduction to state politics: jobs, economic development and internships this year.
“It’s about financing. Now we have the conscience in St. Louis. We have many young designers, including those who are more artisanal, who make jewelry and accessories. They love working there. They see the potential and love the camaraderie. But funding is really needed. That’s where we keep pushing and pushing,” Sherman said.
Admitting that there are other problems and challenges in the world and in the city, where revitalization is a priority, Sherman said success depends on eliminating the noise. That is why the anniversary is a reminder of the potential for growth and the improvement of the city’s brand. “It’s not something we’re making up. It is part of the city’s DNA. People in St. Louis love to talk about the [1904] World Fair. Well, they love talking about fashion history and looking at the old buildings on Washington Avenue to say, ‘This is what it was, let’s bring it back.'”
After all, Missouri is known as the “Show Me State,” Sherman said. “So it’s about showcasing some of the best parts of the industry: people who are doing the work and asking, ‘How can we move this forward together?’” To launch its year-long celebration, the SLFF gave the Welcome to Veronica Beard, founder of Veronica Swanson. Beard and Veronica Miele Beard at a Neiman Marcus talk earlier this year.
With almost 301,600 inhabitants, the city continues trying to strengthen its textile district. The SLFF will offer its insights as the St. Louis center revisits its 2017 study. “As we look at the future of fashion in St. Louis, we really need to strengthen our ability to produce, cut and sew, and train pattern makers and seamstresses. Without that, the business will not arise. Designers want to see production and be [based] close to where things are produced,” Sherman said.
To that end, there is The Collective Thread, a nonprofit that offers small-batch production and empowers refugee women through free sewing classes in the St. Louis textile district. “What hasn’t happened in the center of this country is the creation of a major manufacturing center,” said Sherman, who noted how up-and-coming designers like Elena Velez and Carly Mark of Puppets and Puppets have spoken of their interest in domestic manufacturing in the Midwest. “I can’t say it’s a collective effort. But if you don’t have it or build it, they won’t come. “We are aware of what is happening across the country, but we are focused on the Midwest.”
In addition to attracting new talent, SLFF’s Joan Berkman emphasized her goal of retaining local graduates from the University of Washington and the Stevens Institute of Business and Arts. “We don’t want them to go to New York, Chicago or Los Angeles. You have to stay with us, because we have the contacts, the relationships, the paid internships, the mentorships, and the jobs. And guess where they are settling and setting up their businesses? Right here in St. Louis.”
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