by The last time my husband and I skied together our biggest concern was finding the best April.myski bar. It’s been a decade and, with a six- and three-year-old in tow, our Christmas priorities have changed.
For all parents embarking on their first family ski holiday, the biggest fear is that their children won’t like the sport and they risk shelling out thousands of pounds to spend a week in a chalet playing Hungry Frogs . To combat both fears, we set out to find an affordable, short-distance destination that offers equal parts kid-friendly slopes and advanced challenges. We were surprised to find the answer in Poland.
Little known to most British skiers, Zakopane is a famous and loved ski resort among Poles, located on the mountainous border with Slovakia. Independent British company Snomads, which has gained traction with bespoke ski breaks in Bulgaria, has launched equally affordable holidays to Zakopane in a bid to broaden its appeal.
As a couple, we were already fans of the Eastern European country, having enjoyed city breaks there, and the promise of high-quality skiing at a fraction of the price of the Alps was too good to pass up.
A local tourist center
The drive from Krakow to our chalet took just two hours: the children stood transfixed as we climbed winding roads through the Tatras mountain range, passing snow-covered forests and traditional wooden houses that glowed in the night sky. Upon arrival, our hosts Maks and Rosie served delicious pierogi (Polish dumplings) and cold beer. The chalet was simple but exuded a cozy charm: unlike the alternatives in the Alps, we had a garden with a tree house where the children could play and build snowmen.
Zakopane is delightfully simple and proudly Polish. The locals were as surprised to hear British voices on the slopes as we were to be the only ones there. “What are you going to make ink here?” A friendly snowboarder asked us one morning on the chairlift. That’s not to say they weren’t happy to see us: we found them all to be extremely polite, charming and kid-friendly.
And it really was a bargain. A Tatry Super Ski Pass, which covers slopes in both Zakopane and Slovakia, costs £29 per day, half the typical cost of a lift pass in the Alps. Our private ski lessons with WoMaski, booked through Snomads, cost £135 for three hours and equipment hire only costs us £15 per day; £8 for children.
Eating out was also a bargain – the menus were delicious and always good value. At traditional inns in the area, a meal for four with drinks and desserts costs approximately £30. In addition to kid-friendly dishes like pizzas and chicken schnitzels, we enjoyed authentic Polish mountain food like soups, potato cakes with goulash, sausages and meatballs, all in epic portions. A beer, in a prime spot on the terrace of the Lešiczówka Resto Bar, cost £3 and became a favourite.
Relief for parents
It cannot be denied that low prices relieve pressure on parents. “If you made a pack of kids and they hated it, you’d be sick of it,” said an Irish mother I met while taking the kids sledding. “I like the way here you can see how you get on and there are plenty of other activities for them if they want a break. [from skiing].”
In addition to ice skating, an ice maze and sledding, there are thermal spas throughout the city – an affordable way to spend an afternoon off the slopes. We visited the Zakopane water park, which has slides, waves and a lazy river as well as a large outdoor spa. Alternatively, if you are staying in a chalet, most hotels offer visitor passes to their pool and spa facilities; It’s incredibly easy to save money at every opportunity.
As for skiing, there was a comfortable children’s slope next to our chalet, but the children’s favorite place was Maleciche, a 10-minute drive away. It had a crowd-free beginner area, and within a couple of days, our daughter was able to ski with us down the blue run.
Another area we explored was Kasprowy Wierch, one of the highest mountains in Poland and home to snowy slopes at 1,987m. From the upper cable car stations you can enjoy magnificent views of the most majestic peaks in Poland and Slovakia. My husband and I took turns descending the freeride trails, a spectacular three-mile descent through forests and bubbling streams, while the kids watched the skiers walk along the ridge before beginning a challenging run to the death by the top.
Insider information
So what is the problem? The Zakopane ski area is smaller than the average alpine resort and its relatively low altitude means the season is short. During the week we visited in February, like most ski resorts in Europe last winter, the weather was disappointingly mild, leading to muddy conditions on the slopes. But we were not intimidated thanks to the excellent snow cover on the highest slopes. The forecast for the following week was perfect: heavy snow, blue skies, and sub-zero temperatures.
Zakopane’s slopes are also separated, so planning and taxi transfers are required for most visitors. However, with Snomads services we were able to explore the entire area with ease.
The company was founded in 2012 by a group of friends who are passionate about skiing. They offer chalets in unusual destinations and personalized trips led by expert local guides.
Our host Maks was born in Britain to Polish parents and learned to ski as a child in Zakopane. His knowledge of the area helped us plan each day perfectly – he was instrumental in booking transfers, lessons and passes and recommending local restaurants. He also, like magic, provided us with a homemade cake every day for when we got back from the slopes. The concierge-like service made our visit to this lesser-known destination complete.
Essentials
Snomads is offering a week’s stay in its Stardust Chalet for £300 per adult and £255 per child. Prices include daily breakfast and a two-course meal for two nights, airport transfers and daily transportation to the slopes. British Airways offers flights from London to Krakow from £72 return.
