Emma Jones had tried the moisturizer. In fact, Emma Jones had tried multiple moisturizers, lotions, serums, and soaps. But the 35-year-old real estate agent, with fair, freckled skin that itched and peeled, couldn’t find a skin care product that would alleviate her chronic periods of dryness. So when she found a blog that mentioned genetic skin testing, Ella Jones decided to give it a try. She ordered a deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) kit from GeneHabit, a genetic testing platform that promises skin care information that “can help you understand your skin’s genetic risk for developing skin conditions such as premature aging, sun damage, elasticity skin allergies” and determine if you are “predisposed to certain skin conditions, such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and wrinkles. And it not only reveals the future of your face, but also what is dimming your shine now; deficiencies of vitamins, minerals and nutrients that manifest as skin problems.
For $99 and a quick spit in a tube, Jones would get a personalized skin care report created by scientific experts, along with a recommended beauty routine. “I had never thought that my genes could have such a significant impact on my skin,” she says. “Previously I had focused on external factors, such as the weather and the creams I used.”
When Jones received his genetic file, he discovered that he had a genetic mutation that caused his skin to be very dry. To help, GeneHabit recommended a moisturizer. But the report went deeper, suggesting that you incorporate products specifically containing niacinamide (an ingredient that helps regulate moisture by acting as a barrier) into your beauty routine and add more antioxidant-rich foods like fish, eggs, and oranges. juice in her diet. Jones found the process “illuminating” and the information “invaluable” in guiding the decisions she made for her skin. And after a few weeks, she saw improvements.
Like Jones, many people are turning to DNA testing to help them uncover the complexity of their skin and make a personalized plan. With just a swab of the inside of your cheek, a few drops of saliva, or sometimes a blood sample, they can get specific information, based on your genetic makeup, about how your skin will age, how to treat skin conditions, and, sometimes how your skin will age. How to stop problems before they happen.
Beauty biohacking is a large and flourishing industry within the skincare and wellness space. According to the Global DNA-Based Skin Care Products Market Report 2023, the $6.5 Billion Genomic Skin Care Industry is Expected to Grow a Few Billions More by 2027 With their unique approach to skin health, these next-generation companies are the antithesis of a beauty space that can feel crowded with an overwhelming amount of options and opinions.
DNA tests don’t make predictions about skin health in the clairvoyant way that you’ll get a pimple tomorrow. Instead, after you submit your saliva or blood sample, it is evaluated by a team of scientific experts who study your genetic makeup and send you a detailed report two to six weeks later.
Multiple different genes influence how the skin responds to UV rays, pollution, stress and poor nutrition, and some individuals carry genetic variations that make them more susceptible to premature aging, says Sara Harcharik Perkins, MD, professor assistant in the department of dermatology at Yale. Medicine School. The companies claim that using these DNA markers gives them the ability to provide personalized skin diagnosis.
“Our customers are happy to not have to guess and buy products that are not effective; instead, they invest a little up front to make sure the products they choose work,” says Darya Rzaca, an esthetician and co-owner of Atelier Beauté in Brooklyn, a skin care clinic that offers DNA testing. Rzaca says the tests allow him to understand whether a person is predisposed to acne or pigmentation issues and provide information on collagen production rates, skin elasticity and sensitivities.
On a larger scale, companies like Nordic Labs in Denmark have also started offering DNA testing. Using a small blood sample, Nordic Labs’ DNA Skin division analyzes 18 genetic variants associated with skin health and aging, collagen formation, inflammation, breakouts, hyperpigmentation, and even oxidative stress. From the resulting information, the company generates a comprehensive, holistic report that highlights personalized nutrition, wellness and skin care recommendations to meet an individual’s needs.
Beloved French skincare brand Biologique Recherche even offers My Beauty DNA services at select spas and salons around the world. Using DNA sequencers, the company says it analyzes more than 600,000 genetic variations in the human genome to better understand each individual’s genetic predispositions, which are undetectable with other diagnostic tools. “By being aware of these skin predispositions, it will be easier to address problems that need to be treated preventively to better protect the skin,” says Rupert Schmid, co-president of Biologique Recherche.
Other beauty biotech companies, such as Parallel Health, are focusing their attention on the skin microbiome. Like the gut, the skin has its own unique ecosystem of bacteria, fungi, viruses and mites that can affect its integrity. Keeping it in balance is essential to maintaining a healthy complexion. If the microbial diversity of the skin barrier is out of control, you are more susceptible to chronic inflammatory skin conditions, such as dryness, acne, eczema, rosacea and psoriasis; It can also manifest as skin sensitivity, wrinkles, or an uneven skin tone.
That DNA testing is new means there is a lot we don’t know. The research is not yet strong and more studies need to be done. “Scientists don’t understand the biology of skin care well enough to [true] “Genetically personalized skin care is a reality right now,” says Valerie Horsley, Ph.D., professor of molecular, cellular, and developmental biology and dermatology at Yale University. “We don’t fully understand how DNA sequence can change skin traits.” And high hopes can be costly. While the price of a full DNA test used to be around $1,000, you can still expect to shell out between $100 and up to $300. (Be wary of low-priced online tests, as lab fees are often an additional charge).
Dr. Perkins agrees: unbiased research, conducted independently and not by for-profit companies, is needed. But he also agrees that personalized skin care is valuable and worth working on. “The goal of tailoring skin care to the individual is important. The genetics and epigenetics of skin aging (and other skin conditions, such as hyperpigmentation, acne, and rosacea) is an exciting and evolving field,” he says. “While we may one day have the research to make this process a viable skin care protocol, we are not there yet.” That’s okay, though, says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, associate professor of dermatology and director of Clinical and Cosmetic Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “Finally [DNA testing] “It can help consumers better select products and ingredients that meet their individual needs,” he says. Sometimes it’s confidence, not a cure, that’s needed to follow a regimen that can lead to healthier skin.
The energy issue of November 2023